Start with an active volcano that erupted multiple times between 1914 and 1921, the largest being on May 22, 1915, add boiling mudpots, steam vents, and sulfurous gases. Now surround that volcano with thick forests, snow fields, frozen and non-frozen lakes, rivers, streams, wildflowers galore – and you have Lassen Volcanic National Park. Go up the mountain towards Lassen Peak (elevation 10,457 feet) and the temperature drops to 68 degrees F; drive down the mountain and it is around 84 degrees F.
As we sit here writing this blog for the last of the national parks which we are visiting this trip, we are in a wooded campground called Manzanita Lake Campground. Earlier today we walked on a lovely wooded path, Paradise Meadow, which abounded with flowing streams and wildflowers. We did not finish the trail (it was about four miles round trip and we wanted to see other things), so we turned back, finished an hour’s walk, and had lunch.
There is one road that goes through the park and we continued on it, stopping at several turnouts and overlooks to enjoy the views. We saw Summit Lake and continued to Lassen Peak Trailhead at 8,512 feet in elevation. There was still a lot of snow there (and Sima could not resist throwing a snowball, as did many folks). Then on to Lake Helen and Emerald Lake, beautiful lakes (especially Lake Helen) which both still had ice.
As longtime fans of Yellowstone National Park, we were interested in seeing the hydrothermal (action of heated water in the earth’s crust) elements at Lassen. Although Bumpass Hell Trail – the largest hydrothermal area in the park – was closed for rehabilitation (it is named for Kendall Bumpass who severely burned his leg after breaking through a thin crust into a boiling pool; in fact, warnings abound about not stepping off the pavement and even in recent years, people have sustained serious injuries here by stepping into the boiling acidic water), we did get to see Sulphur Works. There, we had the pleasure of seeing – and smelling – a boiling mudpot (just like the name), sulfurous gases, and steaming vents, evidence of the violent activity underground.
At one of the turnoffs, U.S. Geological Survey scientists had set up equipment to monitor the movement of the earth’s crust with the goal of predicting hazardous conditions (there are several in the park). The question is not if there will be another eruption but when. Mount Lassen, like Mount Rainier, is an active volcano.
A visit to the Kohm Yah-mah-nee (“snow mountain”) visitors center rounded out the day.
July 26, 2019 – Day 2 at Lassen Volcanic
We decided that the campground at Lassen was the perfect place to spend Shabbat, so we set about trying to cancel our reservations at the next campground (actually we were not really comfortable with the reservation system of the next park as they would not take a deposit or send an e-mail confirmation, a first for us).
The problem was how do you make a phone call when you have no cellular service in the wilderness? First, we tried the pay phones (yes, they still exist) at the campground store, but they didn’t work (but they did exist). Then we went into the store and the sales clerk told us that he also had AT&T, and if you drive out to the stop sign a bit down the road, turn right and continue to marker 14, across the road from marker 14 there is a turnout, and at a certain spot you can get reception. The trick was finding that exact spot, as just a foot forward or backward did not work. After a few tries, we found the spot, canceled our reservation, and sent a WhatsApp to the family letting them know we were OK, which we think they will assume unless they hear differently.
At marker 14 we also connected with the Chabad website which gives Shabbat start and end times for anywhere in the world.
We went back to the campground, did laundry, dumped tanks, had an early lunch, and went for a hike around Manzanita Lake. Easy walking in the most scenic setting of woods and lake with snow-capped mountains in the distance – and possibly the best view of Lassen Peak. So relaxing, so comfortable, so picturesque – we walked for an hour and a half.
Next, well you know what’s next.
Our last Shabbat of the trip, six in all, and it was peaceful and quiet. We are looking forward to being home soon. For as nice and relaxing as it is to spend Shabbat in nature, it is still very special to be among family and friends in Eretz Yisrael.